{"id":278622,"date":"2026-06-22T10:02:00","date_gmt":"2026-06-22T10:02:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/biafax.it\/it\/?p=278622"},"modified":"2026-07-31T16:13:03","modified_gmt":"2026-07-31T14:13:03","slug":"sostituzione-sellette-risolvi-il-problema","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/replacing-the-seat-pads-fix-the-problem\/","title":{"rendered":"Saddle replacement: solve the problem."},"content":{"rendered":"

Saddle replacement: solve the problem.<\/h1>How many times have you had a guitar<\/a> that sounds good, the neck is perfect, the electronics too, but there's always something wrong? Maybe an intonation you never keep, a string that breaks every now and then always in the same spot, or a feeling under your right hand that doesn't convince you. Well, nine times out of ten, the culprit is there, small and unsuspected: the bridge saddles.nI won't hide from you that at first, when I started tinkering with my guitars in the garage, the saddles were a bit of a mystery. It seemed like something for \"real luthiers\", stuff that if you touched something you risked destroying everything. Instead, I'll tell you, it's an operation that with a little patience and the right tools, you can easily do yourself. Trust me, if I managed it after messing up everything, you can do it too.

This is not an article that sells you the magic solution, let's be clear. It's a practical, step-by-step guide, with all those tips I would have wanted when I started. I'll explain why saddles are so important, how to understand when it's time to change them, how to choose the right ones and, of course, how to do the job without going crazy. Ready? Let's get our hands dirty.nn

Why Saddles Are the Heart of Your Bridge (And Why They Sometimes Fail)<\/h2>nn nnnnn

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Okay, we understand that saddles are important. But how do you know if the problem with your guitar is really there and not perhaps in the nut or the truss rod? There are clear signs that indicate it's time to consider the replacing the saddles<\/strong>.

The most obvious sign is intonation. If you can't tune your guitar correctly\u2014for example, if the string sounds right when open but flat or sharp at the twelfth fret\u2014and you've already tried adjusting the intonation screws to their limits without success, then the saddles may be worn or defective.

Another warning sign is frequent string breaks. If a string consistently breaks in the same spot, just above the saddle, it's almost certainly caused by a sharp edge or a deep groove cutting into it. This isn't just annoying, it's also costly in the long run.

Have you noticed a strange buzzing sound, a metallic hum that doesn't seem to come from the frets? Sometimes the strings can vibrate against the uneven saddle grooves, creating an unwanted noise.

And what about the action? If you have difficulty adjusting the string height evenly, or if the adjustment screws are blocked and no longer turn, it's a sign that corrosion or wear has taken its course. The fear of disassembling the entire bridge and not being able to reassemble it is common, but you'll see that it's not as complicated as it seems.nn

How to inspect saddles<\/h3>nn

nn<\/p>\nnTo understand if the problem is really there, you need to perform a visual and tactile inspection.nn1. Look closely:<\/strong> Hold the guitar up to a good light. Get a magnifying glass if you have one. Look at the places where the strings rest on the saddles. Do you see any grooves? Are they deep? Do they have sharp edges? If you use different gauge strings, you may have different-sized grooves, which isn't helpful. 2. Feel with your finger:<\/strong> With the strings loosened or removed, gently run your fingertip over the saddle's contact point. Do you feel any roughness or sharp edges? If so, there's a problem. 3. Check the screws:<\/strong> Try turning the small screws that adjust the height and intonation. Do they move freely? Are there any resistance? If they're stuck or stiff, you're in trouble. Sometimes a little lubricant is all it takes, but often it's too late. Check the inclination:<\/strong> On some bridges, such as Tune-o-matics, the saddles may be installed the wrong way or bent. Make sure they're all aligned properly and that the string is resting correctly.

This check is essential. It saves you from spending money and time on adjust the guitar<\/a> in a problem that isn't the right one. Never underestimate the importance of a thorough analysis before proceeding with any intervention.

A Guide to Choosing New Saddles: Not All are the Same<\/h2>\n
\r\n
Advertising<\/span><\/div>\r\n
\r\n \"TUSQ\r\n <\/div>\r\n
\r\n
TUSQ Stratocaster\/Telecaster Style Guitar Saddles 2 1\/16 inch Spacing<\/div>\r\n
\u2605 4.7<\/span> (99 reviews)<\/div>\r\n \r\n See on Amazon<\/a>\r\n <\/div>\r\n \"\"\r\n<\/div>\nnnnnnnnnDecided, it's time to change the jumpers<\/strong>Excellent. But which ones should you choose? It's easy to get lost here, as the market offers endless options. The choice isn't just aesthetic; it profoundly affects the instrument's sound and playability.

The first aspect to consider is the material<\/strong>. Saddles can be made of:nn Steel:<\/strong> The most common, especially on Stratocaster or Telecaster-type bridges. It offers a bright sound and good sustain. Durability depends on the quality of the steel. Stamped steel saddles are the most common, but there are also solid steel ones, which are denser and more resonant.
<\/em> Brass:<\/strong> It tends to produce a warmer, rounder sound and greater sustain. It's excellent for those seeking a vintage tone or wanting to tone down some excessive brightness. It wears out a little more easily than steel.
Titanium:<\/strong> Lightweight and very durable material. It offers a bright sound, remarkable sustain, and excellent stability. It's more expensive, but if you're looking for maximum performance and durability, it's worth considering.
<\/em> Graph Tech (TUSQ, Graphtech Ratio):<\/strong> It's not metal, but a self-lubricating composite polymer. It's excellent for reducing friction and preventing string breakage, while also improving tuning stability, especially when using a tremolo. The sound is balanced, with good sustain. Perfect for those who have frequent string breakage issues or want greater stability. You can find more details on their official website: graphtech.com<\/a>.
Ceramic\/Zirconia:<\/strong> Less common, they offer a very bright sound and almost infinite sustain, but can be fragile.

My experience? I've tried a bit of everything. Brass saddles have always given me a more \"mellow\" feeling, while good quality steel ones are a guarantee. On my latest project, to avoid breakage problems, I installed Graph Tech and haven't looked back.nn

Saddle Types and Sizes: Don't Make My Mistake!<\/h3>This is the crucial point where I myself have made mistakes multiple times. Buying the wrong saddles is a classic, I've been there too. There are different types of bridges and, consequently, different types of saddles.nn<\/em> Strat-style (Vintage or Modern):<\/strong> They come in various shapes, sometimes bent (bent steel) or block-shaped (block saddles). Measurements are crucial here: the width of the block, the thickness, and above all the distance between the screws.
Tele-style (3-saddle or 6-saddle):<\/strong> Vintage Telecasters often have three saddles for two strings each. Modern Telecasters have six. Again, the dimensions are specific.
<\/em> Tune-o-matic (TOM):<\/strong> Typical of Gibsons and many short-scale guitars. The saddles are small, often with a notch for the string. The important thing here is the height and angle of the saddle.
Floyd Rose\/Tremolo Floating:<\/strong> Here the saddles are real blocks with a clamp that blocks the string. The measurements must be <\/em>exact for your bridge model. Getting it wrong means you won't be able to lock the strings or you'll have spacing issues.
<\/em> Hardtail (fixed):<\/strong> Similar to Strat-style or Tele-style, but without the tremolo mechanism.nnThe golden rule: MEASURE, MEASURE, MEASURE!<\/strong>

Before ordering anything, you should measure your current saddles and bridge. Don't assume they're all the same. They're not.
Here's what you need to measure:nn1. Saddle width:<\/strong> From side to side.n2. Saddle length:<\/strong> From front to back.n3. Saddle height:<\/strong> From the base to the top (not counting the adjustment screw).n4. Height adjustment screw spacing:<\/strong> The distance between the centers of the two vertical screws (if present).n5. Screw thread pitch:<\/strong> Not all screws are created equal! If the saddles you buy have adjustment screws with a different pitch than those on your bridge, you won't be able to install them. The most common sizes are metric (M3) or imperial (4-40, 6-32). You can also simply reuse your old screws if they're in good condition and fit the new saddles.n6. String spacing:<\/strong> This isn't a measurement of the saddle itself, but it's a crucial one. Measure the distance from the center of the low E string to the center of the high E string. New saddles must match this spacing to properly align with the pickups and the edges of the fingerboard.

Take the time necessary to measure everything with a precision caliper. Make a drawing, take notes. A detailed photo of your bridge and saddles can help you compare with products online. There's nothing more frustrating than waiting for parts, receiving them, and finding out they don't fit.nn

The step-by-step replacement process: dirty hands, clean results<\/h2>Well, you've got your new saddles, you've measured everything and you're ready to go. replace the intoners<\/strong>. Great! Now I'll explain how to do it, without rushing and with all the tricks of the trade that I learned the hard way.

1. Preparation: The garage luthier's kit<\/h3>Before you start, prepare your workbench. There's nothing worse than having to stop to look for a tool.nnMaterials and tools:<\/strong>nn The new saddles:<\/strong> Obviously!
<\/em> Screwdrivers:<\/strong> Phillips and flathead keys of various sizes, suitable for the bridge and saddle screws. Sometimes Allen keys are also needed.
Hand or ratchet screwdriver:<\/strong> for the most stubborn screws.
<\/em> Tuner:<\/strong> Electronic, precise.
Steel ruler:<\/strong> To measure action and intonation.
<\/em> Set of feeler gauges:<\/strong> To measure the relief of the handle.
String action gauge or action ruler:<\/strong> To measure the height of the strings.
<\/em> Nut\/Saddle Lubricant (such as Graph Tech TUSQ or a little graphite):<\/strong> Not mandatory, but it helps a lot.
Soft cloth and metal cleaner:<\/strong> To clean the bridge.
<\/em> Camera or smartphone:<\/strong> To take photos before and during the process (trust me, it's gold!).
New strings:<\/strong> While you're at it, now's a good time to assemble them.
<\/em> Wire cutters:<\/strong> To cut the ropes.
String winder:<\/strong> To speed up string changes.nn

2. Removing old saddles: the \u201cdocument everything\u201d phase\u201d<\/h3>This is the most delicate part. Don't be afraid, but be methodical.nn1. Take pictures! Always!<\/strong> Before touching anything, take clear photos of your bridge from several angles. Specifically, photograph the height of the saddles and the position of the intonation screws. This will give you a starting point for the initial setup of the new saddles. It will save you a lot of headaches, believe me. 2. Loosen the strings:<\/strong> Loosen the strings until they feel limp. It's not necessary to remove them completely right away unless absolutely necessary due to the type of bridge. 3. Mark the position of the saddles (optional but useful):<\/strong> If your saddles are still in good intonation, you can use a fine-tipped marker to make a small mark on the bridge, aligned with the back of each saddle. This will give you a rough indication of the initial intonation of the new saddles. Remove the saddles one by one:<\/strong><\/em> Strat\/Tele type bridges:<\/strong> Unscrew the two vertical height adjustment screws and the horizontal intonation screw. Remove the saddle. Be careful not to lose the screws or springs.
Tune-o-matic Bridges:<\/strong> Saddles are often fixed or held in place by a small bar. You may have to loosen the strings completely and remove the bar to slide them out.
<\/em> Floyd Rose Bridges:<\/strong> Loosen the clamp holding the string, remove the string. Then unscrew the intonation screw and remove the saddle.nn5. Clean the bridge:<\/strong> Once you've removed all the old saddles, clean the bridge thoroughly. Remove dust, dirt, and any traces of corrosion. A clean bridge is a better foundation for new saddles.

3. Installing the new saddles: patience is a virtue<\/h3>Now is the time to fit new saddles<\/strong>.nn1. Lubricate the screws (if necessary):<\/strong> If your new saddles don't come with pre-lubricated screws, put a drop of metal lubricant (or even just a little light motor oil) on the threads of the height and intonation screws. This will make them run smoother and prevent future corrosion. 2. Install the new saddles:<\/strong> Assemble them one by one, respecting the order and spacing of the strings.
Strat\/Tele Bridges:<\/strong> Tighten the height and intonation screws. Don't overtighten them yet.
<\/em> Tune-o-matic Bridges:<\/strong> Replace the bar (if applicable) and make sure the saddles are oriented correctly (they often have a beveled side).
Floyd Rose Bridges:<\/strong> Insert the saddle, making sure the clamp is free.nn3. Initial setup (raw):<\/strong><\/em> Height:<\/strong> Look at the photos you took! Adjust the saddle height screws so they're roughly the same as the old ones. This will give you a decent starting action. If you don't have any photos, start with the saddles high enough so the strings don't touch the frets, then lower them.
Intonation:<\/strong> Position the saddles so that the intonation screws are roughly in the same starting position, or at least halfway down. This will give you a starting point for fine tuning.nn4. Fit the new strings:<\/strong> Put on the new strings. Tune them. Stretch the strings by tugging gently to adjust the tuning. Retune them. Repeat a couple of times until they hold their tune.

4. Fine-tuning: the ballet between action and intonation<\/h3>This is the part that requires the most patience. Don't expect it to be perfect on the first try. It's a dance between action and intonation.nn1. Relief adjustment (neck curvature):<\/strong> Check the neck relief (the slight curvature). Hold the low E string at the first fret and then at the point where the neck joins the body (or the last fret). Measure the gap between the string and the top of the 7th\/8th fret. It should be between 0.20mm and 0.30mm (0.008-0.012 inches). If it's too much or too little, adjust the truss rod. Make small adjustments (a quarter turn at a time) and wait a few minutes for the wood to settle. 2. Adjusting the action (string height):<\/strong> Once your guitar is in tune, measure the string height at the 12th fret. Use your string action gauge. A good starting point is about 1.5mm for the high E and 2.0mm for the low E (but personal preference varies). Lower or raise the saddles using the vertical screws. Make small adjustments. Each time you change the action, the intonation may shift slightly, so you'll need to retune. Fine intonation:<\/strong> This is the most critical part of the replacing the bridge saddles<\/strong>.
<\/em> Perfectly matched.
Play the open string and check the tuning.
<\/em> Play the string at the 12th fret (harmonic) and check the tuning.
Play the string at the 12th fret (fret down) and check the tuning.
<\/em> If the harmonic and the fret pressed at the 12th fret are flat compared to the open string, the saddle is too far back: push it forward (tighten the intonation screw).
If the harmonic and the key pressed at the 12th fret are sharp, the saddle is too far forward: pull it back (unscrew the intonation screw).
<\/em> Make small adjustments at a time, retune, and recheck. Repeat for all six strings.
This process is iterative. A small change on one string can affect the others. Be patient.

Common mistakes to avoid<\/h3>nn<\/em> Forcing the screws:<\/strong> If a screw is stuck, don't force it. You risk stripping the head or breaking the thread. Try a little screwdriver or lubricant, let it work, and then gently try again.
Do not measure:<\/strong> I've told you before, but I'll say it again. Buying by eye is the best way to waste time and money.
<\/em> Don't take pictures:<\/strong> You will bitterly regret not documenting the original positions.
Be in a hurry:<\/strong> Setting up a guitar takes time and precision. Take a day off, put on some music, and enjoy the process.
<\/em> Don't check the relief:<\/strong> An improperly adjusted neck makes stable action and intonation impossible.nn

Beyond Replacement: Maintenance and Little Tricks<\/h2>You're done! You have new saddles, the guitar plays in tune, and the action is perfect. Congratulations! It wasn't that hard, was it? That's the beauty of DIY: the satisfaction of solving a problem with your own hands.

But the work doesn't end here. To prolong the life of your new saddles and keep your guitar in top condition, there are some small tricks and good practices.nn

Regular maintenance<\/h3>nn1. Cleaning:<\/strong> Every time you change the strings, take a few minutes to thoroughly clean the saddles and bridge. Use a soft cloth and a metal cleaner if necessary. Removing dirt and sweat prevents corrosion. 2. Lubrication:<\/strong> Apply a small amount of nut lubricant (such as Graph Tech TUSQ or a little powdered graphite) to the saddle grooves. This reduces string friction, prevents breakage, and improves tuning stability, especially if you use a tremolo. 3. Visual inspection:<\/strong> Every now and then, check your saddles. Look for signs of wear, grooves forming, or screws starting to seize up. Early intervention will save you time and money.

When to consider an entire bridge?<\/h3>Sometimes, the simple installation of replacement saddles<\/strong> It's not enough. If the bridge body is warped, if the intonation screws no longer have solid threads, or if the bridge design itself is poor, you may need to consider replacing the entire bridge block. This is a more complex job, which we could address in another article, but it's important to know when the temporary solution is no longer sufficient.

Generally speaking, if you have a mid- or high-end guitar, a good set of quality saddles is always a worthwhile upgrade. If you have a budget guitar, sometimes even just changing the saddles can make a surprising difference, elevating the performance of an otherwise meh instrument.

Remember, every guitar is a journey, a continuous discovery. Every modification, every adjustment, teaches you something. And the satisfaction of playing an instrument that you have \"customized\" and fixed yourself, well, that's priceless. Keep experimenting, making mistakes, and learning. That's the beauty of DIY.nn

nn","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Replacing saddles: solve the problem. How many times have you had a guitar that sounds great, the neck is perfect, the electronics are perfect, but there's always something wrong? Maybe it's a tuning you never keep, a string that breaks every now and then in the same spot, or a feeling under your hand... 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The intonation dancing, an action that seems designed to break your fingers, or maybe a string that always breaks in the same spot. Most of the time, the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Costruire una chitarra elettrica"","block_context":{"text":"Costruire una chitarra elettrica","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/building-an-electric-guitar\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":279107,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/guitar-string-height-troubleshooting\/","url_meta":{"origin":278622,"position":1},"title":"Guitar string height: solve the problems.","author":"","date":"30 June 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Guitar String Height: Troubleshooting. I still remember my first assembled guitar, a kind of messed-up Stratocaster that looked more like a saw than a musical instrument. The strings were too high, or too low and buzzed everywhere. Playing a barre chord was torture, and slides seemed made of paper\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Riparare una chitarra elettrica"","block_context":{"text":"Riparare una chitarra elettrica","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/repairing-an-electric-guitar\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":279140,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/adjusting-guitar-action-troubleshooting\/","url_meta":{"origin":278622,"position":2},"title":"Adjusting guitar action: solve the problems.","author":"","date":"26 June 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Adjusting guitar action: solve problems I still remember the first time I tried to adjust the height of the guitar strings. 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The strings felt like steel cables, my fingers\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Riparare una chitarra elettrica"","block_context":{"text":"Riparare una chitarra elettrica","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/repairing-an-electric-guitar\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278834,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/guitar-wont-stay-in-tune-quick-diagnosis\/","url_meta":{"origin":278622,"position":3},"title":"Guitar Out of Tune: Quick Diagnosis","author":"","date":"28 June 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Guitar won't tune: quick diagnosis How many times has this happened to you? You pick up your guitar, tune it, play a couple of riffs, and bam! The note is already flat. Or worse, you play a chord on the first fret and it's perfect, you move it to the ninth and it sounds like\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Riparare una chitarra elettrica"","block_context":{"text":"Riparare una chitarra elettrica","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/repairing-an-electric-guitar\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_riparazione.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278862,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/fix-any-mechanics-that-arent-working-right-away\/","url_meta":{"origin":278622,"position":4},"title":"Fix mechanics that don't hold up right away","author":"","date":"1 July 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Fix tuners that don't hold immediatelyHow many times has this happened to you? You finish tuning, play a couple of chords and the guitar is already flat. Or, even worse, you leave it in its case overnight and the next day it looks like a drunk octopus used it. It's incredibly frustrating, it\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Costruire una chitarra elettrica"","block_context":{"text":"Costruire una chitarra elettrica","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/building-an-electric-guitar\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_costruzione.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278977,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/electric-guitar-bridge-height-adjust-it-in-3-steps\/","url_meta":{"origin":278622,"position":5},"title":"Electric Guitar Bridge Height: Adjust it in 3 Steps","author":"","date":"29 June 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Electric Guitar Bridge Height: Adjust it in 3 StepsSo, guys, let's be clear: the electric guitar is a fantastic instrument, but how many times have you heard that annoying buzz on the low strings, or had your fingers hurt after two chords because the action is too high? It's\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Riparare una chitarra elettrica"","block_context":{"text":"Riparare una chitarra elettrica","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/repairing-an-electric-guitar\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278977_st_installazione_ponte_chitarra_img_01.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278977_st_installazione_ponte_chitarra_img_01.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278977_st_installazione_ponte_chitarra_img_01.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278977_st_installazione_ponte_chitarra_img_01.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278977_st_installazione_ponte_chitarra_img_01.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278977_st_installazione_ponte_chitarra_img_01.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/278622","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=278622"}],"version-history":[{"count":26,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/278622\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":294164,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/278622\/revisions\/294164"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/278468"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=278622"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=278622"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=278622"},{"taxonomy":"cluster","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/cluster?post=278622"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}