{"id":295216,"date":"2026-08-21T13:32:07","date_gmt":"2026-08-21T11:32:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/it\/treble-bleed-condensatore-resistore-scegliere\/"},"modified":"2026-08-21T13:39:50","modified_gmt":"2026-08-21T11:39:50","slug":"treble-bleed-condensatore-resistore-scegliere","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/treble-bleed-which-capacitor-and-resistor-to-choose\/","title":{"rendered":"Treble bleed: which capacitor and resistor to choose"},"content":{"rendered":"

Treble bleed: which capacitor<\/strong> and resistor to choose<\/h1>

\n\nHow many times has it happened to you to lower the volume of your guitar and feel that the sound became muddy, dark, without that brilliance you like so much? To me, the first few times, it seemed like the guitar was turning off, not just in volume. I thought it was normal, an inevitable compromise. Then I discovered the treble bleed<\/strong>, a small, but very powerful circuit that solves exactly this problem. A component that, placed in the right spot, changes your life and sound.\n\nI'm not a professional luthier, you know. I'm someone who, like you, has spent hours in the garage disassembling, reassembling, soldering, and desoldering. I've burned some potentiometers, I've made some cold solders that drove me crazy, but in the end, I learned. And the treble bleed<\/strong> It's one of those modifications that, once tried, you wonder how you managed to play without. The beauty is that it costs nothing and can be done in ten minutes.\n\nSo, make yourself comfortable. Today I'll explain not only as<\/em> to put a treble bleed<\/strong>, but above all why<\/em> how it works and which<\/em> combination of capacitor and resistor to choose for your guitar. Because, trust me, there isn't a one-size-fits-all solution. And, as always, I'll also tell you about my mistakes, so you won't make them.\n\n<\/p>

Why does volume steal high frequencies? The physics of the potentiometer<\/h2>\n\n

\n
Advertisement<\/span><\/div>\n
\n \"Musiclily\n <\/div>\n
\n
Musiclily Pro Treble Bleed Mod with Sprague Orange Drop 225P Capacitor and Precision Resistor for Electric Guitar Bass .001uF+150K | Film\/Sheet Polyester 225P for Electric Guitar Bass .001uF + 150K<\/div>\n
\u2605 4.8<\/span> (208 reviews)<\/div>\n \n See on Amazon<\/a>\n <\/div>\n \"\"\n<\/div>
\n
\n
Advertisement<\/span><\/div>\n
\n \"Pair\n <\/div>\n
\n
Pair Highway 1 Type Greasebucket Guitar Tone Upgrade Capacitors Kit For 2 Pots<\/div>\n
\u2605 4.6<\/span> (133 reviews)<\/div>\n \n See on Amazon<\/a>\n <\/div>\n \"\"\n<\/div>
\n
\n
Advertisement<\/span><\/div>\n
\n \"5pcs\n <\/div>\n
\n
5pcs Linear Guitar Pots Volume 500K Electric Guitar Large Pots 24mm Base with Long Split Shaft Guitar Potentiometer B500K<\/div>\n
\u2605 4.5<\/span> (128 reviews)<\/div>\n \n See on Amazon<\/a>\n <\/div>\n \"\"\n<\/div><\/p>\n\n

\n\nLet's start with the problem, the one that makes us curse when we turn down the volume. When you turn the volume knob on your guitar, you are actually acting on a potentiometer, which is a variable resistor. This component controls how much of your pickup's signal reaches the amplifier.\n\nThe point is that the pick-up<\/strong> of the guitar are not simple current generators, but have their own inductance. The strings vibrate, creating a magnetic field that is converted into an electrical signal. A complex signal, made of many different frequencies: low, medium, and high.\n\nWhen the volume potentiometer is at its maximum (position 10), the signal passes almost undisturbed. But when you start to lower it, the potentiometer's resistance increases its opposition to the signal's passage. And this is where physics comes into play.\n\nYour guitar-cable-amplifier circuit is not perfect. The cable, for example, has its own parasitic capacitance. The pick-up<\/strong>, as I was saying, have inductance and resistance. The potentiometer itself has a resistance. All these elements together form an RC (Resistance-Capacitance) or RLC (Resistance-Inductance-Capacitance) filter which, when the potentiometer's resistance increases (i.e., you lower the volume), starts to cut the higher frequencies.\n\nIt’s a bit like the higher frequencies, being more “fragile” and less powerful, have more difficulty passing through that additional resistance, while the lower ones, being more “robust”, manage to make their way better. The result? A duller, less defined sound, which makes you lose the attack and clarity you had at maximum volume. And this is precisely what we want to avoid with a treble bleed<\/strong>.\n\n<\/p>

What is a Treble Bleed and how it works (in practice)<\/h2>

\n\nThe treble bleed<\/strong> It's a small circuit, composed of a capacitor and, often, a resistor, which is soldered between the input and output terminals of the volume potentiometer. Its purpose is simple: to allow high frequencies to “bypass” the potentiometer's resistance when you turn it down, thus maintaining the brightness of the sound.\n\nImagine a river. The potentiometer is a dam that, when closed, slows down the flow of water (the signal). Larger boats (low frequencies) can still pass, albeit more slowly. Smaller boats (high frequencies), however, get stuck. The treble bleed<\/strong> it's a small side channel, a bypass, which allows small boats to continue flowing smoothly, even when the main dam is closed.\n\nElectronically speaking, a capacitor has the property of letting high frequencies pass more easily than low frequencies. It's a “high-pass filter”. When you solder it in parallel with the potentiometer, high frequencies, instead of encountering the variable resistance that would block them, find the easier path through the capacitor. Low frequencies, on the other hand, continue to follow the potentiometer's path, being attenuated normally.\n\nThe result? You lower the volume, but your guitar maintains its “twang” or its definition, without becoming a wet blanket. It's a simple, reversible modification that, once tried, will make you wonder why you didn't do it sooner. And I'll tell you, the first few times I soldered these components, I trembled a bit. But then I realized it's easier than it seems. The important thing is to have a decent soldering iron and a little patience.\n\n<\/p>

The three main approaches to Treble Bleed: capacitor only, Kinman and Duncan<\/h2>

\n\nIn the field, I have seen and tried several configurations of treble bleed<\/strong>. There isn't an absolute “best”, but there are different philosophies, each with its pros and cons. Understanding the differences will help you choose the right one for you and your guitar.\n\n<\/p>

1. The Treble Bleed with only the capacitor<\/h3>

\n\nThis is the simplest approach, the one many try first. It involves soldering a capacitor directly between the input pin (where the signal from the pickup arrives) and the output pin (which goes to the switch or jack) of the volume potentiometer.\n\n How it works:<\/strong> The capacitor creates a preferential path for high frequencies, allowing them to bypass the potentiometer's resistance when the volume is lowered.\n<\/em> Advantages:<\/strong> Extremely simple to install, requires only one component. It's inexpensive.\n Disadvantages:<\/strong> Often, with only the capacitor, the sound can become <\/em>too bright or even “piercing” and thin when the volume is very low. It's as if the bypass channel is too wide and lets too many high frequencies pass through, unbalancing the sound. Furthermore, it can alter the potentiometer's response curve, making it seem “all or nothing” in the lower part of its travel.\n<\/em> Typical values:<\/strong> Capacitors from 1000 pF (0.001 µF) to 2200 pF (0.0022 µF) are usually used. I tried with a 1000 pF on a Stratocaster and found myself with a sound that was too “acidic” at low volume. It wasn't what I was looking for.\n\nIf you want to try this method, I recommend starting with low values and gradually increasing them. Maybe do some “flying” tests with alligator clips before soldering permanently.\n\n<\/p>

2. The “Kinman Style” Treble Bleed (capacitor and resistor in parallel)<\/h3>

\n\nThis configuration is very popular, made famous by Chris Kinman, a well-known pickup manufacturer. It consists of soldering a resistor in parallel with the capacitor, and then the entire “package” in parallel to the pins of the volume potentiometer.\n\n How it works:<\/strong> The additional resistance serves to “dampen” the effect of the capacitor on high frequencies, preventing them from becoming too shrill. Furthermore, it helps maintain a more linear response of the potentiometer throughout its travel, which doesn't always happen with just the capacitor. In practice, the resistance acts as a brake for high frequencies passing through the capacitor, balancing the flow.\n<\/em> Advantages:<\/strong> It offers a more balanced and natural sound compared to just the capacitor. It better maintains the feel of the potentiometer throughout its travel.\n Disadvantages:<\/strong> It requires two components. The choice of values is crucial to obtain the desired result.\n<\/em> Typical values:<\/strong> A common starting point is a 1000 pF (0.001 µF) or 1200 pF (0.0012 µF) capacitor in parallel with a 150 kΩ resistor. Kinman himself often recommends 1200 pF + 130 kΩ. I tried this combination on my Les Paul with humbuckers and I must say the result was excellent. The sound remained defined without becoming shrill.\n\n<\/p>

3. The Treble Bleed “Duncan Style” (capacitor and resistor in series)<\/h3>

\n\nAnother common configuration, often associated with Seymour Duncan, involves soldering the capacitor and resistor in series with each other, and then this block in parallel with the volume potentiometer.\n\n How it works:<\/strong> Here too, the resistance serves to balance the effect of the capacitor. But, being in series, it has a slightly different impact on the filter's slope and its interaction with the potentiometer. This configuration tends to maintain a very transparent sound and is less prone to “boosting” high frequencies.\n<\/em> Advantages:<\/strong> Many guitarists find this configuration to be the most “transparent”, meaning it alters the guitar's original sound the least, merely preventing the loss of high frequencies without adding new ones. It is very effective in maintaining sustain and attack.\n Disadvantages:<\/strong> Here too, the choice of values is fundamental.\n<\/em> Typical values:<\/strong> A classic combination is a 680 pF (0.00068 µF) to 1000 pF (0.001 µF) capacitor in series with a 100 kΩ to 220 kΩ resistor. For example, 680 pF + 220 kΩ is a popular combination. I used it on a Telecaster with 250k potentiometers and the result was very natural, almost imperceptible until I lowered the volume, and that’s exactly what I was looking for for that guitar.\n\nAs you can see, there are subtle but important differences between these configurations. The “Kinman style” tends to give a bit more brightness, the “Duncan style” is more neutral. The capacitor alone is a bit more unpredictable. The choice depends a lot on your personal taste and your equipment.\n\n<\/p>

Choosing the right values: capacitor and resistor<\/h2>

\n\nNow let's get into the heart of component selection. It's not just about knowing whether to add resistance or not, but also which values<\/em> to use. And here, I assure you, a world of trial and error opens up, but also of satisfactions.\n\n<\/p>

The capacitor: the key to high frequencies<\/h3>

\n\nThe capacitor is the heart of the circuit treble bleed<\/strong>. Its value, expressed in picofarads (pF) or nanofarads (
F), determines how many high frequencies will bypass the potentiometer.\n\n Lower values (e.g. 470 pF – 680 pF):<\/strong> Fewer high frequencies will pass. The sound will be more delicate, less “harsh” at low volume. Excellent for those who want a subtle, almost imperceptible effect, or for guitars that are already very bright.\n<\/em> Medium values (e.g. 1000 pF ― 1200 pF):<\/strong> This is the most common range and a good starting point. It offers a good balance, maintaining brightness without overdoing it. It works well with most pickups and configurations.\n Higher values (e.g. 2200 pF ― 3300 pF):<\/strong> They will let more high frequencies pass. The sound will be brighter and \u201capen\u201d at low volume, almost with a slight boost. It can be great for guitars that tend to sound dark, or for those looking for a more pronounced effect. Be careful, however, because you risk having a sound that is too thin or shrill.\n\nThe type of capacitor (ceramic, polyester, film, etc.) has a minimal influence on the sound in this context. What really matters is its value. I usually use ceramic ones for the treble bleed<\/strong>, they are cheap and do their job excellently.\n\n

The resistor: the sound balancer<\/h3>\n\nThe resistor, if you decide to use it (and I highly recommend it, unless you want a very specific effect), serves to \u201cshape\u201d the capacitor's effect. Its value, expressed in kilo-ohms (k\u03a9), influences how the treble bleed<\/strong> interacts with the potentiometer and the overall sound.\n\n<\/em> Lower values (e.g. 100 k\u03a9 \u2013 130 k\u03a9):<\/strong> The resistor has a weaker \u201cdamping\u201d effect. The sound will be brighter, but still more controlled than with just the capacitor.\n Higher values (e.g. 150 k\u03a9 \u2013 220 k\u03a9):<\/strong> The resistor has a stronger \u201cdamping\u201d effect. The sound will be more natural, less bright, but with minimal loss of high frequencies. This is the range that many find more balanced, especially with humbucker pickups or 500k potentiometers.\n\nRemember that the resistor, in addition to damping the capacitor's effect, also influences the <\/em>taper (the response curve) of the potentiometer. With higher resistance values, the potentiometer will tend to maintain a more linear response, which is often desirable.\n\n

Interaction with potentiometers and pickups<\/h3>\n\nThe choice of values is not independent of the rest of your guitar's circuit.\n\n<\/em> Potentiometer value:<\/strong>\n 250 kΩ:<\/strong> Typically used with single coils, it tends to darken the sound a bit. A treble bleed<\/strong> with slightly higher capacitor values or lower resistance can help maintain brightness.\n <\/em> 500 kΩ:<\/strong> Used with humbuckers, it is already brighter. You might want to use a capacitor with a lower value or higher resistance to avoid an excessively harsh sound.\n 1 MΩ:<\/strong> Rare, but sometimes used to maximize brightness. Here a treble bleed<\/strong> very delicate is a must.\n\n<\/em> Pickup type:<\/strong>\n Single Coil:<\/strong> They tend to be brighter by default. A treble bleed<\/strong> thinner (smaller capacitor, higher resistance) might be preferable.\n <\/em> Humbucker:<\/strong> They tend to be 'fatter' and less bright. A treble bleed<\/strong> more pronounced (larger capacitor, lower resistance) could help maintain clarity.\n\nDon't worry too much if it seems like a maze at first. The important thing is to understand that there isn't a \u201cmagic recipe\u201d that works for everyone. The beauty of DIY is precisely being able to experiment and find the your<\/em> solution.\n\n<\/p>

The Treble Bleed Calculator by Biafax: your ally in the garage<\/h2>

\n\nNow that we have understood the theory, let's move on to practice. I know very well that choosing values “by eye” can be frustrating. I myself have bought packs of capacitors and resistors of all kinds, soldering and desoldering until I found the right sound. It's a process, it's true, but it can be made simpler.\n\nFor this reason, on Biafax.it, I created a Treble Bleed Calculator<\/a> free. It's a tool that allows you to enter some parameters of your guitar (pickup type, potentiometer value) and suggests starting values for the capacitor and resistor, both for the Kinman and Duncan configurations.\n\nIt's not a magic wand that gives you the perfect solution on the first try, but it's an excellent starting point to limit trial and error. It gives you an idea of which values are most suitable for your configuration, based on data and the experience of many guitarists.\n\n<\/p>

How to use it (and why it's useful):<\/h3>

\n\n1. Enter your data:<\/strong> Select the pickup type (single coil or humbucker) and the value of the volume potentiometer (250k, 500k, 1M).\n2. Get suggestions:<\/strong> The calculator will show you the recommended values for the capacitor and the resistor, both for the Kinman (parallel) and for the Duncan (series) circuit.\n3. Experiment:<\/strong> Take these values as a base. Order some capacitors and resistors with similar values (perhaps slightly higher and slightly lower) and do some tests.\n\nThe advantage of using a calculator is that it provides you with a rational basis to start. It avoids you starting completely blind and directs you towards solutions that, statistically, have given good results to others. I developed it precisely thinking about how many hours I lost searching for “the right value” on forums and tutorials, without clear guidance.\n\nRemember: the calculator gives you a starting point. Your ear and your preferences are the last word.\n\n<\/p>

Practical installation: soldering the Treble Bleed without fear<\/h2>

\n\nOk, you have chosen your components. Now it’s time to get your hands on the soldering iron. Don’t be scared! Soldering è a skill acquired with practice. If I ’ve learned it, you can learn it too.\n\n<\/p>

What you need:<\/h3> Soldering iron:<\/strong> A 30-40W one is perfectly fine. You don’t need professional stuff to start.\n<\/em>Pond:<\/strong>

With flux core, good qualità. I use the 0.8 mm one.\n Desoldering pump or desoldering braid:<\/strong> To correct any errors.\n<\/em> Long-nose pliers and wire cutters:<\/strong> Useful for handling components and cutting wires.\n Third hand (optional but recommended):<\/strong> It holds the components steady while you solder, a real blessing.\n<\/em> Goggles:<\/strong> Always, you never know.\n A damp sponge:<\/strong> To clean the tip of the soldering iron.\n<\/em> Patience and a bit ’ of calm.<\/strong>\n\n<\/p>

The steps for installation:<\/h3>

\n\n1. Open the guitar:<\/strong> Unscrew the pickguard or back cover screws, depending on the model.\n2. Identify the volume potentiometer:<\/strong> It is what controls the general volume.\n3. Locate the pins:<\/strong> A potentiometer has three pins.\n Pin 1 (on the left, looking at the potentiometer from below with the pins facing you) is usually ground.\n <\/em> Pin 2 (center) is the output, which goes to the switch or jack.\n Pin 3 (on the right) is the input, which receives the signal from the pickup.\n You must work between pin 2 and pin 3.\n4. Prepare the Treble Bleed circuit:<\/strong>\n <\/em> Capacitor only:<\/strong> You only need one capacitor.\n Kinman Style (parallel):<\/strong> Solder the resistor to the capacitor leads. You will have a single component with two “legs” (one from the capacitor, one from the resistor).\n <\/em> Duncan Style (series):<\/strong> Solder one end of the resistor to one end of the capacitor. You will have a “package” with one free leg of the capacitor and one free leg of the resistor.\n5. Solder the Treble Bleed:<\/strong> Connect one end of your Treble Bleed circuit to pin 2 (middle) of the potentiometer and the other end to pin 3 (right).\n Heat the potentiometer pin with the soldering iron tip, apply solder until a small shiny “pool” forms.\n <\/em> Insert the component leg into the solder “pool”, remove the soldering iron and wait a couple of seconds for the solder to solidify.\n Do the same for the other end of the component.\n <\/em> Make sure the solders are shiny and solid, not dull or “cold”. If a solder è ugly, redo it. Don't be afraid.\n6. Verify:<\/strong> Once soldered, visually check for short circuits or wires touching where they shouldn't.\n7. Close the guitar:<\/strong> Reassemble everything carefully.\n\n<\/p>

Garage tips:<\/h3> Clean the soldering iron tip:<\/strong> Every now and then, wipe it on the damp sponge. A clean tip solders better.\n<\/em>Do not overheat:<\/strong>

Potentiometers and capacitors don't like excessive heat. Be quick and decisive with the soldering iron. If you see white smoke, that's fine. If you see the component melting, you've overheated it.\n Do some tests with alligator clips:<\/strong> Before soldering permanently, you can connect the components with small cables with alligator clips. It allows you to try different combinations without desoldering every time. It's a trick that has saved me a lot of time and components.\n<\/em> Document:<\/strong> Take a photo before you start, so you know how to reconnect everything if you get lost.\n\nIt's not a difficult operation, but it requires a bit of attention. The first time I soldered a treble bleed<\/strong>, it took me an hour and a half, sweating cold. Now I do it in ten minutes. Practice makes perfect.\n\n<\/p>

Treble Bleed and potentiometer taper: a delicate relationship<\/h2>

\n\nWe talked about how the treble bleed<\/strong> maintains high frequencies, but there's another important aspect to consider: how it influences the taper<\/em> of the potentiometer. The taper is the curve with which the potentiometer reacts to the movement of the knob.\n\nThere are two main types of potentiometers:\n\n Logarithmic (Audio Taper):<\/strong> They are the most common for guitar volume. They are designed to compensate for how the human ear perceives volume. The resistance does not change linearly, but logarithmically, so that the volume seems to increase and decrease in a more “smooth” and gradual way.\n<\/em> Linear (Linear Taper):<\/strong> The resistance changes proportionally to the movement of the knob. They are more often used for tone controls or for volume in some specific applications, but as volume, they can make the sound seem to go from off to very loud in a few degrees of rotation.\n\nWhen you install a treble bleed<\/strong>, especially with just the capacitor, you might notice that the potentiometer's taper changes. The volume might seem to drop very quickly in the first part of the travel, and then remain almost constant in the final part. This happens because the capacitor, by bypassing high frequencies, alters the perception of volume throughout the potentiometer's travel.\n\nThis is where the resistor in the circuit treble bleed<\/strong> becomes fundamental. Adding a resistance, as in Kinman or Duncan configurations, helps to “linearize” the potentiometer's response a bit. It doesn't transform it into a linear one, but it makes the response more gradual and predictable, avoiding that “all or nothing” effect that can be annoying.\n\n<\/p>

My practical advice:<\/h3>

\n\nIf you use a logarithmic potentiometer (99% of the time it's like this for volume), experiment with a treble bleed<\/strong> that includes a resistance. It will give you finer control and a more natural feel when you lower the volume. I have tried both solutions, and with only the capacitor, on some potentiometers, it seemed like I only had two positions: all or nothing. With the resistance, volume modulation became a pleasure again.\n\n<\/p>

Treble Bleed FAQ<\/h2>

\n\nTo conclude, here are some questions I am often asked about the treble bleed<\/strong>.\n\n<\/p>

Can I put a treble bleed on any guitar?<\/h3>

\n\nYes, in principle you can install a treble bleed<\/strong> on any electric guitar that has a volume potentiometer. It works with both single coils and humbuckers, and with any potentiometer value. The important thing is to choose the right values for the components based on your configuration. I've put it on Strat, Tele, Les Paul, and even on a bass.\n\n<\/p>

Does the treble bleed change the sound at maximum volume?<\/h3>

or, if installed correctly, the treble bleed<\/strong> it should not alter the sound of your guitar when the volume potentiometer is at full travel (position 10). Its effect only manifests when you start to lower the volume. If you notice a change at maximum volume, there’s something wrong with the installation (a short circuit, a bad solder joint, or faulty components).\n\n<\/p>

Are there any contraindications to using a treble bleed?<\/h3>

\n\nThe contraindications are minimal. The main risk is choosing values that don’t suit your taste, making the sound too bright or too dark at low volume. For this reason, it’s important to experiment and use a calculator like Biafax’s as a starting point. The only true “contraindication” is that once you get used to it, you won’t be able to do without it!\n\n<\/p>

What type of capacitor should I use?<\/h3>

\n\nFor the treble bleed<\/strong>, the type of capacitor is not as critical as for tone. Ceramic, polyester, or film capacitors are perfectly fine. The sonic difference, if any, is so minimal as to be almost imperceptible. Focus on the value in pF or
F, that’s what matters. Personally, I use ceramic ones for their affordability and small size.\n\n<\/p>

Conclusions: don’t be afraid to experiment<\/h2>

\n\nI hope this guide has taken away some of your fear and given you the tools to understand and install a treble bleed<\/strong> on your guitar. It's not black magic, it's just a bit of applied electronics, and the result can really improve your sound experience.\n\nRemember, the DIY world is made of trials, errors, and small victories. I learned this way, and every time I soldered a component and felt the improvement, it was immense satisfaction. Don't be afraid to pick up the soldering iron, to try different configurations and trust your ear. Use our Treble Bleed Calculator<\/a> as a starting point, but then explore, adapt, and customize. Your guitar, your sound, your rules. And if you make a mistake, desolder it and do it again. It’s part of the game.\n\nPremier Guitar<\/a> has an excellent article that further explores the topic for those who want to read more from an authoritative source.<\/p>\n\n

Related free tool:<\/strong> Treble Bleed Calculator<\/a> — calculate the values of the treble bleed circuit for your guitar online.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Treble bleed: which capacitor and resistor to choose How many times has it happened to you that you lower the volume of your guitar and feel that the sound becomes muddy, dark, without that brilliance you like so much? For me, the first few times, it seemed like the guitar was turning off, not just in volume. I thought it was normal, an inevitable compromise. … Read more<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":278469,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"advanced_seo_description":"","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"jetpack_seo_schema_type":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[84],"tags":[18,162,157,156,161,160],"cluster":[],"class_list":["post-295216","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-elettronica-e-wiring","tag-chitarra-elettrica","tag-condensatore","tag-fai-da-te","tag-liuteria","tag-treble-bleed","tag-treble-bleed-condensatore"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7vwa6-1eNy","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":278514,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/treble-bleed-keep-the-high-frequencies-even-as-you-turn-up-the-volume\/","url_meta":{"origin":295216,"position":0},"title":"Treble bleed: keep the highs when raising the volume","author":"Mimmo","date":"23 July 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Treble bleed: keep the trebles by raising the volume How many times has it happened to you? You're playing, the sound is perfect, bright, with all the harmonics in the right place. Then, to clean up the sound a bit or for a more delicate passage, you slightly lower the guitar's volume, and boom! All that\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Elettronica e Wiring"","block_context":{"text":"Elettronica e Wiring","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/electronics-and-wiring\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Treble bleed: mantieni gli acuti alzando il volume","src":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/21_treble_bleed.svg","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/21_treble_bleed.svg 1x, https:\/\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/21_treble_bleed.svg 1.5x, https:\/\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/21_treble_bleed.svg 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278502,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/1950s-wiring-vintage-schematic-and-differences-from-modern-wiring\/","url_meta":{"origin":295216,"position":1},"title":"50s wiring: vintage diagram and differences with modern","author":"Mimmo","date":"23 July 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"50s wiring: vintage diagram and differences with modern If you are looking for a clear and practical 50s wiring guitar, you are in the right place. Here you will find the diagram, the explanation of the connections and tips to avoid common mistakes. Introduction This vintage diagram, historically used by Gibson, picks up the control signal\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Elettronica e Wiring"","block_context":{"text":"Elettronica e Wiring","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/electronics-and-wiring\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278842,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/guitar-capacitor-wiring-a-guide\/","url_meta":{"origin":295216,"position":2},"title":"Wiring Guitar Capacitors: A Guide","author":"Mimmo","date":"24 June 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Guitar Capacitor Wiring: Essential Guide for Your Sound When I started getting my hands on guitars, disassembling and reassembling the electronics, there was one thing that intimidated me a bit: guitar capacitors. Everyone talked about them, some saying they worked miracles, others that they were just an insignificant detail.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Elettronica e Wiring"","block_context":{"text":"Elettronica e Wiring","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/electronics-and-wiring\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278842_cablaggio_corpo_chitarra_elettrica_img_01.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278842_cablaggio_corpo_chitarra_elettrica_img_01.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278842_cablaggio_corpo_chitarra_elettrica_img_01.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278842_cablaggio_corpo_chitarra_elettrica_img_01.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278842_cablaggio_corpo_chitarra_elettrica_img_01.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_278842_cablaggio_corpo_chitarra_elettrica_img_01.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278500,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/master-tone-passive-low-pass-filter-for-guitar\/","url_meta":{"origin":295216,"position":3},"title":"Master tone: passive low-pass filter for guitar","author":"Mimmo","date":"23 July 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Master tone: passive low-pass filter for guitar When I started getting my hands on guitars, many years ago, the tone control was a bit of a black box for me. I turned that knob and the sound changed, it became darker, more muffled. But why it happened, well, that\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Elettronica e Wiring"","block_context":{"text":"Elettronica e Wiring","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/electronics-and-wiring\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278886,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/250k-vs-500k-potentiometers-a-guide-to-choosing-the-right-one\/","url_meta":{"origin":295216,"position":4},"title":"250k vs. 500k Potentiometers: A Guide to Choosing.","author":"Mimmo","date":"2 July 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"250k vs 500k Potentiometers: Guide to choosing.If you've ever tinkered with your guitar's electronics, or if you're thinking of doing it for the first time, you'll have come across a dilemma that gives many a headache: 250k vs 500k potentiometers. It's not an easy choice,\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Componenti elettrici\/elettronici"","block_context":{"text":"Componenti elettrici\/elettronici","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/electrical-electronic-components\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_strumenti_e_materiali.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_strumenti_e_materiali.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_strumenti_e_materiali.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_strumenti_e_materiali.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_strumenti_e_materiali.png?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_strumenti_e_materiali.png?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":278965,"url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/guitar-electronics-7-upgrades-to-consider\/","url_meta":{"origin":295216,"position":5},"title":"Guitar Electronics: 7 Upgrades You Should Make","author":"Mimmo","date":"26 June 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Guitar electronic components: 7 upgrades to make We've all been there. That guitar you really like aesthetically, that looks good on the couch or hanging on the wall, but when you plug it into the amp, well... it doesn't sound quite like you'd want. Maybe it's a bit dull, or too noisy, or the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Componenti elettrici\/elettronici"","block_context":{"text":"Componenti elettrici\/elettronici","link":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/category\/electrical-electronic-components\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cropped-installazione_pickup_potenziometri_componenti_img_01.webp?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cropped-installazione_pickup_potenziometri_componenti_img_01.webp?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cropped-installazione_pickup_potenziometri_componenti_img_01.webp?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cropped-installazione_pickup_potenziometri_componenti_img_01.webp?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cropped-installazione_pickup_potenziometri_componenti_img_01.webp?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cropped-installazione_pickup_potenziometri_componenti_img_01.webp?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/cover_elettronica.png","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295216","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=295216"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295216\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":295219,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295216\/revisions\/295219"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/278469"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=295216"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=295216"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=295216"},{"taxonomy":"cluster","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/biafax.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/cluster?post=295216"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}