Electric guitar under 2000: Buying Guide
So, let's face it right away: when we talk about a guitar electric under 2000 euros, We're no longer in the realm of "first battle guitars" you bought to see if you liked playing. And we're not even yet in the realm of thousand-euro custom shops where every grain is a work of art and the price is almost a random number. No, we're somewhere in between. And the middle, I tell you, is a wonderful place for those, like me, with sawdust on their hands and solder on the tip of their soldering iron.
In this price range, you'll find instruments that are truly workhorses. Guitars you carry around, play live, record, and maybe, if you're like me, get your hands on to make them your own, to push them a little further. It's not perfect stuff, mind you, but it's stuff that works. And it works well, often very well. This guide's goal is precisely that: to understand what to expect, what to look for, and, above all, how not to get ripped off when investing such a sum. Because €2,000 is a lot, and we don't want to waste it.
I've spent years disassembling, reassembling, soldering, and repainting guitars that, perhaps, were originally built in this price range. I've seen things done well and things done terribly. I've learned that sometimes a good setup is enough to transform a "so-so" instrument into a war machine, and that other times, not even the most expensive pickup in the world can save a poorly made piece of wood. So, let's brace ourselves, because we're not talking about glossy brochures here, but wood, metal, and wiring.
What to Expect from an Electric Guitar in This Price Range (and What Not to)
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In this gallery: installation, pickup and electric.
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To give you a better understanding of what I mean, instead of talking about specific models—which change every year, and which, honestly, I don't go to the store to try out every day like a professional—I'll describe three "archetypes" of guitars often found in this price range. They're examples of what you might find, with their typical features, pros and cons, and above all, the "popular sentiment" surrounding them.
Archetype 1: The Versatile Classic (Mid-Range Strat-Style Type)
Imagine a guitar that nods to the great American classics, but with a modern twist and an affordable price. It's the ideal companion for anyone looking for a reliable instrument for any situation.
Technical characteristics (Typical example)
Body: Often made of alder or ash, sometimes with a thin maple top. These are light, resonant woods that provide good attack and balanced sustain.
Handle: Maple with a rosewood or maple fingerboard. The profile is usually a "Modern C" or a slim "D": fast but with enough meat to fill the hand. Sometimes you'll also find ebony or pau ferro fingerboards.
Pick-up: The HSS configuration (humbucker in the bridge position, single coil in the middle and neck positions) is very common for its versatility. Brands like Seymour Duncan (e.g., JB/Jazz or SSL-1) or DiMarzio (e.g., Super Distortion/PAF Pro) are common, as are high-quality proprietary pickups.
Stairs: The classic 25.5″ (648mm), standard for this type of guitar, which offers good string tension and clarity.
Hardware: A double-pivot tremolo bridge, often with steel or graphite saddles. Locking tuners are almost standard, ensuring tuning stability even with moderate vibrato. The nut is made of TUSQ or synthetic bone.
Finish: Thin polyurethane (Poly), often glossy or satin. Classic colors like Sunburst, Olympic White, and Black.
Relevant construction notes: Stainless steel frets are often found, which last a lifetime and make bending smoother. The truss rod, sometimes located at the heel of the neck, is easily accessible. The wiring is clean, with decent shielding.
Popular sentiment (What is being said around)
“It's a real workhorse, I take it everywhere.” “The neck is a joy, you fly on it.” “The stock pickups are good, but with a bridge pickup swap it becomes a monster!” Many appreciate its versatility, playability, and durability. The most common flaws? “The tremolo sometimes isn't very precise in intonation after heavy use,” “The finish is nice but doesn't have the 'breath' of nitro.‘ ’Single coils can be a bit noisy if not perfectly shielded.”
Pros and Cons in relation to the price
Pros: Versatility: With an HSS setup, you can cover a multitude of genres, from blues to rock, from pop to light metal.
Playability: The fast neck and fine fretwork make it comfortable to play for hours.
Quality of materials: Solid woods, reliable hardware, brand-name pickups. An excellent foundation.
Upgrade Potential: It is the perfect guitar for those who want to start modify your guitar. A new set of pickups, a brass tremolo block, and you have an instrument that competes with much higher end instruments.
Against: “Generic” sound: While versatile, it may lack distinctive character if left completely stock.
Standard aesthetics: It doesn't stand out for its originality, it's a re-release of a classic.
It's not a boutique: While well made, it doesn't have the “mojo” or craftsmanship of a custom piece.
Who is it suitable for / Who should avoid it?
Suitable for: Anyone looking for a reliable, comfortable, and versatile guitar for both studio and live performance. Perfect for the intermediate guitarist looking to take their guitar to the next level, or for the professional guitarist looking for a solid tool for touring. Ideal for DIY enthusiasts who want a solid foundation for experimenting.
Better to avoid it if: You're looking for a very specific sound that only a certain type of pickup or tonewood can deliver. You want a collector's item with a unique history or aesthetic. You don't plan on tinkering with it and want everything "perfect" out of the box (even if it's pretty close).
Archetype 2: The Modern Rocker (Nicely finished Les Paul-Style)
Here we're talking about guitars with a darker soul, designed for sustain, power, and a striking look. Often with an aggressive aesthetic and a full-bodied sound.
Technical characteristics (Typical example)
Body: Mahogany with a flamed or quilted maple top, often with a clear finish that highlights the grain. Sometimes a weight relief is used to reduce weight.
Handle: Mahogany, with an Ebony or Richlite fingerboard. The profile is a “Thin D” or “Slim Taper,” very fast and comfortable for shredding and complex riffs.
Pick-up: HH (dual humbucker) configuration. Active pickups (e.g., EMG 81/85, Fishman Fluence) are often found for a modern, powerful sound, or high-end passive humbuckers (e.g., DiMarzio Super Distortion, Seymour Duncan SH-4 JB).
Stairs: The classic 24.75″ (628mm), which offers a softer feel on the strings and a rounder sustain.
Hardware: Tune-o-matic bridge and stopbar, solid and reliable. Grover or similar tuners, precise and robust. TUSQ or graphite nut.
Finish: Gloss or satin polyurethane, sometimes with metallic colors or deep bursts.
Relevant construction notes: They often have easy access to the truss rod, binding on the fingerboard and well-finished body, and sometimes a contoured neck heel for better access to the higher frets.
Popular sentiment (What is being said around)
“It's a colossal sound, with infinite sustain.” “Perfect for metal, heavy rock, it rocks!” “The neck is incredibly fast, I never get tired.” Weak points? “It's heavy, you can feel it after an hour on end.” “Active pickups aren't for everyone, sometimes they lack a bit of dynamics.’ ”It's not very versatile, I wouldn't use it for blues.“
Pros and Cons in relation to the price
Pros: Power and Sustain: Ideal for genres that require a big, compact sound with a long sustain.
Aggressive Look: The aesthetic is often captivating, with flamed tops and shiny finishes.
Fast Handle: Perfect for fast solos and technical riffs, thanks to the slim profile and ebony fingerboard.
Sturdy Construction: Tools made to last and withstand heavy use.
Against: Weight: They can be quite heavy tools, which may be a problem for some.
Less Versatile: While modern pickups offer split-coil and other options, it doesn't quite match the versatility of a Strat-style.
Active Pickups (if present): They require a 9V battery, which must be changed periodically. The sound may be less dynamic and "organic" for some tastes.
Who is it suitable for / Who should avoid it?
Suitable for: Rockers, metalheads, prog guitarists, or anyone looking for a powerful, focused sound. Perfect for those playing in bands who need an instrument that cuts through the mix.
Better to avoid it if: You're looking for lightness, crystal-clear, and twangy sounds, or you love single coils. If you play softer genres like jazz or traditional blues, you might find it excessive or unsuitable.
Archetype 3: The Semi-Acoustic Blues/Jazz (ES-Style Hollowbody with Center Block)
For those seeking a warm, resonant sound, with that extra touch of "air" that only a semi-acoustic can provide. A timeless classic for blues, jazz, rockabilly, and rock.“
‘' most classic roll.
Technical characteristics (Typical example)
Body: Laminated maple top, back, and sides. A mahogany or maple center block is crucial to reduce feedback and increase sustain, making it more manageable at high volumes than a pure hollowbody.
Handle: Mahogany, with a rosewood or ebony fingerboard. The profile is often a “Medium C” or “Vintage D,” rounder and more comfortable for complex chords and expressive bends.
Pick-up: HH configuration. PAF-style humbuckers (e.g. Alnico II or V, with moderate output) or P-90s are often found, for a warm, harmonically rich sound with good definition.
Stairs: The classic 24.75″ (628mm), which contributes to the smooth feel and round sustain.
Hardware: Tune-o-matic bridge and stopbar, or sometimes a trapezoid tailpiece for a more vintage look and slightly different sustain. Kluson-style or Grover tuners. TUSQ or bone nut.
Finish: Gloss polyurethane, often in Sunburst, Cherry or Natural colors.
Relevant construction notes: The body and neck are beautifully finished with multi-ply binding. The tone chambers are optimized for resonance. The wiring is meticulously crafted, sometimes with treble bleed pots to maintain clarity when the volume is lowered.
Popular sentiment (What is being said around)
“Warm, resonant sound, perfect for blues and jazz.” “Beautiful to look at, it has an elegance that other guitars don't have.” “It gives off a bit of feedback at high volumes, you have to learn to manage it.’ ”It's not the most comfortable to play standing up for hours, it's a bit bulky.“
Pros and Cons in relation to the price
Pros: Rich and Warm Tone: The semi-acoustic body provides a harmony and resonance that solid body guitars lack. Perfect for clean sounds and light crunch.
Classic Aesthetics: An iconic and timeless design that always makes an impression.
Great for Specific Genres: Excels in blues, jazz, rockabilly, gospel.
Acoustic Sensation: You can also play it unplugged for silent practice.
Against: Feedback Sensitive: Even with the center block, at very high volumes or with a lot of distortion, it can trigger feedback. This requires some management and positioning on stage.
Less Versatile for Hard Rock: It's not the best choice for genres that require a lot of distortion or a percussive attack.
Dimensions: It is larger and bulkier than a solid body, which may affect comfort for some.
Who is it suitable for / Who should avoid it?
Suitable for: Bluesmen, jazz musicians, rock fans '‘
‘' classic roll, for those looking for a warm, full-bodied sound with great resonance. Perfect for the guitarist who loves the dynamics and "organic" feel of the instrument.
Better to avoid it if: You play metal, hard rock, or genres that require a lot of distortion and high volume. If you're looking for an aggressive, percussive sound or a very compact and lightweight guitar.
Your Mimmo Checklist: What to Watch Before to Buy
Ok, we've seen the archetypes. Now, regardless of the model you're interested in, there are some key things to check when you have one in your hand. electric guitar under 2000 euro. Don't be afraid to inspect, touch, or play. You're the one spending the money, not the clerk.
1. General Visual Inspection: Finish: Check for bubbles, leaks, or deep scratches. Small cosmetic defects in hidden areas (such as under the handle or in the cavity) may be tolerable, but there must be no structural defects.
Joints: Body-neck, top-body (if present). They must be precise, without any obvious gaps or misalignments.
Hardware: Check that the bridges, tuners and potentiometers are properly assembled, straight and without play.
2. The Neck and Fingerboard: Straight as a spindle: Hold the guitar as if you were aiming a rifle, looking down the neck on both sides. It should be straight or with a very slight concavity (relief). If it's too curved (bow) or convex (back-bow), the truss rod may be poorly adjusted or, worse, malfunctioning.
Fretwork: This is crucial. Run your fingers along the edges of the fretboard: the frets shouldn't protrude and scratch. Press them one by one: there should be no dead spots (notes that don't sound) or excessive buzz (unless you have a very low action setup). Check the leveling with a short ruler or a fret rocker, if you have one. Well-made frets are synonymous with playability.
Nut: Make sure the strings fit snugly, without excessive gaps or deep grooves. A well-cut nut is essential for intonation and tuning.
3. Electronics:
* Potentiometers and Switches: Turn them over and operate them several times. They should be smooth, without creaking or unusual noises. The volume should increase and decrease.
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